Bulgarian Birthday Surprise

This was meant to be a leaving Bulgaria blog
But it was coincidental with Griffin’s 14th Birthday so that seemed a bit more important subject.
But what it really has become is another chapter in this part of our adventure-
Cycling in Eastern Europe- How it can be (and has been ) exciting and unpredictable constantly.

April 16 2009 Griffin’s 14th and a ride to Nikopol ( on the Danube, on the Romanian border)_A planned 57 km ride.
Stunningly sunny-blue cloudless sky a bit cool but promising to be warm. (Warmest April on record)
Birthday hugs, greetings and special breakfast of croissant (not filled with raisins, cheese or any other filling), jam, fruit with coffee and hot chocolates to follow.

Griffin navigates us out of Pleven ( a busy city) without much of a hitch.
The ride is luscious , rural and varied with hills and flat stretches. Small towns, large farms.
Our first surprise of the day was in Varbica when we find ourselves directed to a dirt road through a farmer’s field ( griffin has an early tumble without injuring himself or sullying his new birthday jersey).This tractor path connects us as promised to the highway we were seeking.
We laughed as we carried on.
Lunch in Milkovica sitting in the town square,young students (more like sy’s age) milling around with ice creams on their lunch break. Introductory English, giggles and pictures taken.
Now just 20 kms. to Nikopol and soon we see the Danube ,wide and slow.The Bulgarian side showing evidence of the communist age with decrepit, rusting factories .I share my understanding of communist history to an interested Simon as we ride the tandem.
We have a late climb before riding into Nikopol , We pass the new ferry terminal (supported by the EU) to Romania.
1430 hours, 66 kms- time to relax. We eventually find the hotel -it wasn’t full, it was CLOSED.
We had been assured that there was a hotel but nobody confirmed that it was open.
So we thought we would head off to Romania only to find that although there was a new ferry terminal. THERE WAS NO FERRY and there wouldn’t be for months.
So we had to find an option, no accommodation and the nearest ‘confirmed’ hotel 35 kms away.
Without any complaining from the boys we headed of to Belene.The sun stayed bright and warm, the ride went easily ( after the 6 km. climb out of Nikopol) and as the GPS and Sy’s bicycle computer both ticked over 100 Kms.we arrived in Belene.
The boys have been surprisingly impressive both physically and mentally in dealing with daily( almost daily) rides. We had planned a 50km/day average but are really closer to 70Km.
We found a hotel.72 Lev/PER PERSON (in contrast with 50-100Lev total- we have been paying up until now)
Fortunately there was a second smaller hotel that has cost us 72 Lev total.
We are here .We had beers, then a delicious Birthday dinner and think we have confirmed that the border crossing 30 kms east is open ( tomorrow’s destination)
So we have done 100 Kms. that hurdle has been cleared.
But we have headed East rather than West so we will have to push a bit in Romania. When we get there.

Our time in Romania has been just fine. Perfect weather ( no rain ) ,lovely route, friendly and helpful people. A small sense of its history and its challenges. Better than expected mileage, accommodation a daily question mark. Our bikes and bodies have been behaving.
The people have been helpful and friendly. Language always a challenge but English is creeping in and on occasions an English speaker gets called to help us out .Our French has come in handy ,German would be better as it is more widely the second, third or fourth language.
We get waves, honks ,curious stares and in smaller villages a look of absolute dumbfoundedness as 3 bikes (one a TANDEM) fly through
Food has been more than adequate, prices reasonable, bread a bit boring. Red wine has improved compared to Turkey and we expect that to continue.
After a few days in Romania we will actually return for a day or two in Bulgaria before Serbia.
100 Kms !!! The Danube!!!- Every day a story that has been unpredicted as the day began. The wonder and appeal of traveling.